![]() ![]() The tire carrier comes with hardware but it is metric and doesnt work with the strut hardware. I used 2.25" or 2.5" 3/8 - 16 grade 8 bolts, grade 8 is overkill but it's what they had. Once the nylon is crushed it is less than ideal to work with.īolts for the tire carrier. I went with the 3/8 nylon coned ones but if you are planning on moving it with any frequency I would go with the spring loaded ones. Strut nuts for tire carrier and tie down points. But on the phone the Wilco salesman indicated that both the toyota and jeep carriers will be the same going forward. I went with the Gladiator version because it included a spacer plate. ![]() Washers for tie down bolts are 32mm or about 1.25". I got this at a local bolt shop so I dont have a link. They get good reviews and they are a fair bit cheaper.īolts to replace the tie down rings are metric size M8 with a 1.25 thread pitch. You can also get the knock off version on amazon, I did. I will try to get that nailed down when I get some time. This depth might not be deep enough and I may need a larger spacer. I went with a deeper channel because the tiedown points on the sides are recessed within the bed rail. You can get basic strut channel and accessories at most big box hardware stores or if you want more selection you can go to an electrical supply store. But I would recommend 12 gauge and or aluminum for more rigidity. I went with 14 gauge galvanized for the front rail because it was easily available. If you are worried about corrosion I'd go with aluminum just know that it isnt as strong. There are plenty of manufacturers and materials. I'll also add in what I used to get the wilco carrier to work. His thread didnt offer up hardware details so hopefully this will be a slight improvement. To give credit where credit is due, I got the strut rail idea from a user on coloradofans by the name of Laslow. I figured I'd make a quick informal write up on this. ![]()
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